There are several ferry companies and departure times to choose from, so it is worth comparing them and selecting the one that best fits your schedule. We traveled with Aremiti. Because we had a rental car, we reserved both our passenger and vehicle tickets in advance rather than risk arriving and finding that the available vehicle spaces were full. You may be able to book the day of, but we preferred the peace of mind.

When purchasing a vehicle ticket, you will be asked to select the car’s size because the fare varies based on its length. Of course, when reserving a rental car in advance, you may not know the exact model you will receive. We had booked an “SUV Tiggo” and made our best guess that it would fall under the medium, under-4.70-meter category. That worked perfectly, and no questions or concerns were raised when we boarded.

The approach to Moorea was stunning. As the island’s green mountains came into view, we joked that it looked like the entrance to Jurassic Park. It is worth heading outside with your camera rather than staying seated inside for the entire crossing.

Arriving in Moorea by ferry

Before settling in, we made the all-important stop at a convenience store for water, snacks, and a few essentials. Then we arrived at our Airbnb and immediately knew we had made the right accommodation choice. It was spacious, centrally located, and surrounded by what felt like our own private tropical jungle, complete with lush palms, a hammock, and access to a nearby beach. We did not miss having an overwater bungalow at all.

Our private backyard jungle retreat

One of the best decisions we made was booking a half-day 4x4 island tour with FranckyFranck Tours Moorea. We had read great things beforehand, and our toddler was even able to join for free. The tour gave us access to parts of the island we either would not have known to visit or could not have easily reached on our own.

The biggest example was Magic Mountain. You can hike to the viewpoint, but the climb is steep, and private vehicles are not permitted to drive all the way up. Watching our guide navigate the narrow, sharply inclined road in the 4x4 made it very clear why this is not somewhere visitors should attempt to reach independently by car. The drive looked a little treacherous, but the payoff was absolutely worth it. The sweeping view over Opunohu Bay, Mount Rotui, and Moorea’s brilliant blue lagoon was one of the most memorable sights of the trip. You really should not visit Moorea without seeing it.

The tour also included smaller stops that allowed us to experience a little more of the island’s culture. At Moorea Tropical Garden, known for its local jams and vanilla products, our son happily cooled off with freshly made banana ice cream. It was a welcome break during a very hot day, and the kind of charming stop we likely would not have discovered on our own. We also stopped at Manutea Tahiti, which was a good place to browse for souvenirs and local products.

Overall, the tour gave us the broadest look at Moorea and introduced us to places we might otherwise have missed. It was an easy way to see more of the island without having to research every stop or navigate the more difficult routes ourselves.

After the tour, we spent the afternoon at Ta’ahiamanu Beach - the first of several visits during our stay. It quickly became our favorite beach on the island. The combination of turquoise water, dramatic mountains, bright blue sky, and boats sailing in the distance made it feel almost unreal. It was peaceful, easy to access, and perfect for spreading out our towels, eating snacks, and doing very little. We stayed through a beautiful sunset and found ourselves returning more than once because we loved it so much.

For an easy dinner afterward, we picked up pizza from Allo Pizza, a busy roadside stand we had heard about before the trip. It completely lived up to the hype. There were countless topping combinations, the prices were reasonable, and it was easy to grab a few pizzas and beers before heading back to the Airbnb after a long day. We went twice during our stay, and our favorite was the goat cheese and honey pizza. It was also a hit with our little traveler, who finished his pizza and promptly fell asleep beside the remaining slices.

Since our travel dates happened to fall during whale season, we booked two separate private whale-watching excursions through different companies to increase our chances of seeing - and potentially swimming with - humpback whales. Of the two operators, Pacifik Attitude appears to be the one still actively running tours.

We especially enjoyed Pacifik Attitude because they incorporated other experiences while searching for whales. Rather than spending the entire excursion simply boating around, we also snorkeled and visited Stingray City. We purchased their optional photography package, and I am so glad we did. They captured incredible images of us swimming with sharks and stingrays that we never could have taken ourselves.

Eco-tourism in French Polynesia is strictly managed, as it should be. Visitors are only permitted to enter the water with whales during approved seasonal dates and under specific conditions. Our trip fell within that window, so swimming with them was legally possible. Nature, however, is unpredictable. Between both tours, we saw only one whale. We entered the water in hopes of swimming near it, but we missed our chance before it moved on.

Sunset at Ta'ahiamanu Beach

Of course, we were disappointed not to have the encounter we had imagined, but we did not regret booking either excursion. The lagoon scenery alone was spectacular, and swimming with blacktip reef sharks and stingrays still made the experience memorable. Whale watching is one of those activities where expectations matter: you can book during the right season, choose reputable operators, and give yourself multiple chances, but wildlife is never guaranteed.

Traveling with a toddler also shaped how we booked the excursions. We deliberately selected private tours so we would not have to worry about disrupting other guests if he became restless. Thankfully, he did well, but the private format also allowed us more control over the pace and itinerary. My husband and I took turns snorkeling so one of us always remained onboard with him. We also brought his own life vest. The tour companies likely had suitable equipment, but because he was so small, we felt more comfortable knowing we had one that fit him properly.

Another day, we visited Coco Beach, which requires an advance restaurant reservation and a short coordinated boat ride from the designated pickup point. We had heard it described as a must-see, and there were certainly things we enjoyed about it. The views were beautiful, the setting was pleasant to walk around, and eating at a picnic table beside the ocean made for lovely photographs.

My honest opinion, though, is that it was nice rather than essential. I would not build an entire Moorea itinerary around it, and I do not think our trip would have felt incomplete had we skipped it. Similar water and mountain views can be found throughout the island, and Moorea has no shortage of beachside restaurants. If you have an open day and want another relaxed outing - particularly with a child - it is an enjoyable option. Just do not feel pressured to treat it as an absolute must-do. After our boat returned us to the main island, we ended up exactly where we had already been happiest: back at Ta’ahiamanu Beach.

For our final dinner on Moorea, we went to Restaurant Te Honu Iti. The food was very good, but the lagoon beside the restaurant was the real attraction. Sharks and stingrays swam through the water near the tables, which our son loved watching. It was a fun and fitting final meal on an island where so many of our favorite experiences involved the surrounding water and wildlife.

The ferry back to Tahiti was just as uneventful as the trip over - which is always a good thing when traveling with a young child. Since our flight did not leave until later that evening, we spent a little time walking around downtown Papeete. The atmosphere felt noticeably different from Moorea’s slower, quieter pace.

Families with young children may appreciate the large waterfront park near the bay in Papeete. It gave our son space to run around and release some energy after the ferry, and he even ended up playing soccer with a local little boy. The airport also had a small children’s play area inside. We let him climb and play before boarding, and he successfully wore himself out enough to fall asleep almost immediately on the flight home.

Moorea was a different kind of trip for us. We are often drawn to busy itineraries filled with sightseeing, but this vacation moved at a much slower pace. There was still adventure - 4x4 drives, snorkeling, wildlife encounters, and boat excursions - but most of our days unfolded on our own schedule and fit naturally with the rhythm of island life.

It was also proof that a trip to the South Pacific does not necessarily have to revolve around an expensive overwater bungalow or break the bank. By choosing Moorea, renting a home, bringing a car across on the ferry, and mixing excursions with simple beach days and local meals, we were able to experience the scenery, culture, and wildlife while still feeling like we were truly on vacation. Most importantly, it gave us beautiful memories and photographs as a family - and showed us that French Polynesia can be much more than a couples or honeymoon destination.