There are so many small boutique hotels and spas throughout the neighborhood, and the one we found was clean, comfortable, affordable, and a much better fit for us. Our last-minute booking even landed us in the hotel's honeymoon suite, complete with balloons, rose petals, and cake! We would absolutely stay in the Old Quarter again. It put us within walking distance of restaurants, markets, cafés, nightlife, and much of what we wanted to experience in Hanoi.

After traveling from South Korea earlier that day, we wanted something relatively easy for our first evening and chose one of Hanoi's traditional water puppet shows. Water puppets moved across a stage filled with water while traditional music and changing backgrounds helped tell the stories. The puppeteers came out at the end, and their talent was obvious. It was definitely unlike anything we had seen before.

That said, we could have skipped it and been perfectly fine. It was unique and gave us something local to experience without requiring much energy, but it would not make our must-do list.

Seeing the landmarks is great, but getting even a small taste of what everyday life feels like takes the experience to another level. That was exactly what we found during the Hanoi Food, Culture & Vintage Motorbike Adventure with Hanoi Backstreet Tours. Out of all the adventures we've had while traveling, this remains one of the coolest and most memorable things we've done.

The first half of the tour took us around Hanoi on the backs of motorcycles driven by local guides. Only a day earlier, we had been the pedestrians trying to avoid the scooters. Now we were right in the middle of it, riding through busy streets, narrow alleys, neighborhoods, and markets we never would have known how to find on our own. It completely changed our perspective on the traffic and gave us a far more interesting view of the city than we could have gotten from a car.

We also lucked out with a small group consisting of us and two other travelers. That gave everyone a chance to talk, exchange travel stories, and enjoy the day together without feeling like we were part of a large organized tour.

Breakfast was at a streetside food vendor where several picnic tables had been set up for customers. The woman preparing the food worked over small pots and grills right there along the street, while we squeezed in at one of the tables surrounded by people following the same morning routine they probably did every day. It didn't feel like a performance created for tourists. We were simply eating where local people ate, alongside them.

Another favorite moment happened when one of our guides saw a friend at a small open-front gathering spot along the road. There were no real windows or doors - just a casual place open to the street. The plan temporarily became, “My friend is here, and he's wondering if y’all would want to join him for a beer. We'll stop for one and then keep going.” So that is exactly what we did. I loved that the day allowed room for interactions like that instead of feeling rigidly planned from beginning to end.

The route also took us past the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, across Long Biên Bridge, and over the Red River. At one point, our guides brought us to a section of the old train trestle for a photo high above the ground. We carefully climbed into position with their help, and while I was comfortable riding through Hanoi traffic, getting onto that trestle was somehow the part that tested my nerves. It made for such a unique photograph, though!

The scenery continued changing as we left the busiest parts of the city behind. We passed through quieter neighborhoods and saw homes and communities along the river that offered a very different look at daily life outside central Hanoi. One image that has stayed with me is riding between rows of banana plants while Hanoi's skyline rose in front of us in the distance. We were surrounded by green fields, yet the city was still clearly visible in the background. It was one of those views that lasted only a few moments as we rode through, but it became a core memory from the trip.

For the second half of the tour, we traded the motorcycles for a vintage Jeep. Lunch was at Bún Chả Hương Liên, the restaurant widely known for the meal shared there by Barack Obama and Anthony Bourdain. We also made another casual stop to sip tea on the sidewalk with locals before visiting Bát Tràng Pottery Village. There, we tried shaping our own pottery on the wheel and quickly learned that it is much harder than talented potters make it look.

By the time we returned to the hotel, we were ready to clean up and take advantage of the spa with a much-needed foot massage. We still weren't finished with Hanoi, though, and eventually headed back out to experience the city's nightlife.

Beer Street is hectic, crowded, loud, and probably not for everyone - but that is also the entire point. We aren't normally big partiers, but it felt like such a well-known part of Hanoi nightlife that we wanted to experience it at least once. Small stools and makeshift seats filled the street, with everyone sitting so close together that conversations with strangers happened naturally. We ended up making friends with travelers from another country simply because there was practically no space between us.

Going in with the right expectations makes a difference. Those who want to be directly in the action can grab a stool or milk crate and settle into the street. Those who would rather observe the crowd without being completely surrounded by it can find a balcony or rooftop nearby, such as Northern Soul Rooftop. We chose to embrace the chaos and had a genuinely fun night.

Hỏa Lò Prison, commonly known to many as the “Hanoi Hilton,” offered a much more serious experience. The site covers its earlier use under French colonial rule as well as the period when American prisoners of war were held there. Given my dad's service as a helicopter pilot during the Vietnam War, it felt important for us to visit. I appreciated having the opportunity to see the site and better understand its place in the history of the country without pretending that a museum visit could ever fully explain what those who lived through the war experienced.

And because food was an important part of our time in Hanoi, Pho 10 deserves a mention. It is well known and can become crowded, but the pho was delicious and worth the potential wait.

From Hanoi's busy streets, Halong Bay felt like an entirely different world.

Cruise options range from quick day trips to longer overnight itineraries. We booked Serenity Cruises' longest option - a three-day, two-night journey covering both Halong Bay and Lan Ha Bay. Our thinking was simple: when would we have another opportunity to be there? We didn't want to spend hours traveling from Hanoi only to turn around after a short visit.

The package included transportation to and from our Hanoi hotel, and we were upgraded to the Terrace Moon Suite with a private balcony. The room, the service, and the setting were wonderful, but the scenery was obviously the main attraction. Mountains rose directly from the water in every direction, and the calm of the bay was such a dramatic change from Hanoi.

We kayaked between the mountains, relaxed on deck, enjoyed several very nice meals onboard, and took part in activities such as a cooking demonstration. Naturally, we also found time for another massage.

Choosing the longer cruise gave us more time to explore Cat Ba Island, which I would recommend for anyone comfortable with some physical activity. The excursion included a hike, but the views from the top made the effort worthwhile. In fact, you may recognize that view - it is the main image at the top of this page!

The day continued with a beautiful outdoor lunch overlooking the water, followed by time on the beach. We changed into our swimsuits, grabbed a couple of beers, and simply relaxed with the mountains and water in front of us. Pictures never quite captured how beautiful it felt in person. Looking back, I wish I could tell myself to put the camera down for a minute and fully take in where we were.

Another excursion took us by bicycle through Viet Hai Village, where we also learned about locally infused and fermented wines. Some bottles included scorpions or king cobras, which certainly made for an interesting tasting conversation. Between the hiking, beach, cycling, kayaking, and unusual local wines, the longer itinerary gave us far more than just scenic views from the boat.

“Every stop felt like a completely different version of Vietnam - and that was what made the trip so memorable.”

Da Nang brought another complete change in atmosphere. The Sheraton Grand Danang Beach Resort & Spa became our home for the next few days, and it was an impressive property. We had a beautiful room, an excellent breakfast, easy access to the beach, and an enormous swimming pool stretching approximately 820 feet through the resort.

We split our time between relaxing at the pool and beach and exploring nearby Hội An. We originally thought we would also visit Marble Mountains and see Da Nang's Dragon Bridge, but Hội An took up more of our time than expected - and honestly, we were fine with that. After the mountain scenery of Halong Bay, a few days centered around the beach, shopping, and a lively town at night offered something completely different.

Hội An is famous for its tailors, although we entered our first shop cautiously because we weren't sure what the process or quality would be like. We chose Fashion Style Cloth Shop, where we were surrounded by more fabrics than we could possibly process. Customers can describe what they want, but bringing photos is even easier. The tailors can study an item in a picture, take measurements, and recreate it remarkably quickly.

We started with a small order to see how everything turned out. When we returned the next day and saw the results, we immediately placed a second, and much larger, order!

Adam has a difficult time finding clothes that fit properly because of his height, so this was especially valuable for him. He ordered several custom suits, shirts, pants, and a leather jacket. I had dresses and rompers made, all with pockets because that detail matters. By the end, we had ordered so much that we needed to buy another suitcase in Hội An just to bring everything home.

The town became especially beautiful after dark. Colorful lanterns lit the streets and reflected across the river, boats moved through the water, and the markets and food vendors kept the area lively well into the evening. We took a lantern boat ride and later found seats at an outdoor bar, where we had drinks, people-watched, and enjoyed the atmosphere around us. It was an easy place to spend more time than we had originally planned.

Ho Chi Minh City felt completely different from the destinations that had come before it. Hanoi had an older, more historic feel and a level of energy unlike anywhere else we visited. Halong Bay was centered around dramatic scenery, while Da Nang and Hội An gave us beaches, resort time, tailoring, and a smaller-town atmosphere. Ho Chi Minh City was the most urban, polished, and cosmopolitan of the four.

The range within Vietnam became especially clear when we compared eating inexpensive bánh mì from a street vendor in Hanoi with walking past Rolex and other luxury storefronts in Ho Chi Minh City. That juxtaposition said a lot about how many different sides of the country we had encountered over the course of the trip.

We stayed at the Park Hyatt Saigon, and the experience was exceptional from the moment we arrived. Our upgraded room was not yet ready, so instead of simply asking us to wait, the hotel gave us another room where we could shower, freshen up, and relax until our actual accommodations were prepared.

Adam was also celebrating his birthday, which I had shared with the hotel in advance. They surprised us with a beautiful cake, a bottle of wine, and a framed photograph of the two of us that they had asked me to provide before the trip. Between the temporary room, the upgrade, and the thoughtful birthday details, they went far beyond normal good service. We felt genuinely cared for throughout the stay, and the points I used for the reservation were completely worth it.

The hotel's location also made it easy to explore central Ho Chi Minh City on foot. One of the most recommended stops was the Saigon Central Post Office. At first, visiting a post office may not sound particularly exciting, but the appeal becomes more obvious once you step inside. Built in the late 1800s, it remains a functioning post office while also preserving its grand arched interior, historic maps, long counters, and French-influenced architecture. It is less about mailing a postcard and more about seeing one of the city's most distinctive historic buildings.

Notre-Dame Cathedral Basilica of Saigon stands directly nearby, making the two an easy pairing. We admired the cathedral from outside rather than touring the interior. We also walked past Independence Palace, an important landmark associated with the end of the Vietnam War, although we did not go inside.

The War Remnants Museum was far more emotionally difficult. The exhibits address the effects of the Vietnam War through photographs, equipment, and personal stories. With my dad having served in the war, I knew the visit would stir up a lot of emotions, and it did. It was not an easy museum to experience, but it was an important one for us to see.

We also arranged a private tour through the Park Hyatt to visit the Cu Chi Tunnels. Seeing the preserved tunnel system in person made it easier to understand just how small and confined those spaces were. Adam managed to make his way through a section despite his height, which was no small feat.

The site also displayed military equipment and examples of the wartime traps and defenses used in the area. Near the end, visitors could choose to fire historical firearms at the range. We took advantage of the opportunity and tried the machine gun - because honestly, when were we going to have another chance to fire a piece of war-era machinery?!

For our final evening, we had drinks at the rooftop bar of the historic Rex Hotel. During the Vietnam War, the hotel became closely associated with the daily U.S. military press briefings that journalists nicknamed the “Five O'Clock Follies,” while its rooftop was a gathering place for military officials and foreign correspondents. Today, the rooftop offers a very different experience, with open-air seating and broad views over central Ho Chi Minh City.

Vietnam exceeded every expectation we had. It is often overshadowed in travel conversations by places like Thailand or Indonesia, but it deserves just as much attention. The cities, scenery, beaches, food, history, and everyday interactions changed dramatically from one stop to the next, which kept the entire trip interesting.

The one thing I would change is the direction we traveled. Hanoi was our favorite stop, followed by Halong Bay, Da Nang and Hội An, and then Ho Chi Minh City. That is not meant as a criticism of Ho Chi Minh City. We enjoyed it and would still include it, especially for the Cu Chi Tunnels, museums, and historic sites. It simply felt more comparable to other major metropolitan cities, while Hanoi had a personality we had never experienced anywhere else.

If planning the trip again, I would consider flying into Ho Chi Minh City, spending a day or two getting acquainted, and then gradually working north so we could end in Hanoi. Travelers following that route should keep the changing weather in mind. Our December trip began with cooler temperatures in Hanoi and became noticeably warmer as we moved south.

Regardless of which direction you travel, it is difficult to go wrong. Vietnam was diverse, affordable, exciting, and full of experiences we still talk about years later. We cannot recommend it enough.